The partridge season is upon us. It's often pot-luck whether you get a young, tender partridge (that would be delicious roasted) or a tougher, older one. In this recipe it doesn't matter. Whatever goes in will come out juicy and tender.

Ingredients

1 tbsp olive oil
4 small or 2 large prepared partridges
150g/5oz smoked streaky bacon lardons
25g/1oz butter
16 small shallots, peeled and left whole
2 carrots, cut into batons
2 bay leaves
150ml/5fl oz good quality chicken stock
1 Savoy cabbage, outer leaves removed, then cut through the core into 8 wedges
200g/7oz cooked, peeled chestnuts
salt
freshly ground black pepper
boiled or mashed potatoes to serve

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 160C/325F/Gas 3.
2. Heat the oil in a flameproof casserole, add the partridges and brown them lightly all over.
3. Lift the partridges onto a plate, add the bacon lardons to the pan and cook until lightly golden.
4. Add the butter, shallots, garlic, carrots and bay leaves and cook over a medium heat until lightly coloured.
5. Return the partridges to the casserole with the stock, one teaspoon of salt and plenty of black pepper. Cover with a well-fitting lid, transfer to the oven and cook for 20-30 minutes, depending on the size of the birds.
6. Meanwhile, drop the wedges of cabbage into a pan of boiling salted water and blanch for 2-3 minutes. Drain, refresh under cold running water and drain again. Set to one side.
7. Remove the casserole from the oven, take out the partridges, cover and leave to rest in a warm place.
8. Add the cabbage and chestnuts to the casserole and turn them over once or twice in the cooking juices. Simmer on the stove for five minutes until the cabbage is cooked.
9. Divide the cabbage, chestnuts and braised vegetables between four warmed plates and place the birds on top.
10. Serve with boiled or mashed potatoes.